Abu Simbel and Nubia

280 km south of Aswan, Abu Simbel marks the historical boundary between pharaonic Egypt and the Nubian world. The two temples carved from sandstone by Ramesses II in the 13th century BC—one dedicated to the pharaoh, the other to his wife Nefertari and the goddess Hathor—were cut into 1,036 blocks between 1964 and 1968, then reassembled 65 meters higher to escape the waters of Lake Nasser created by the Aswan High Dam. The result remains convincing: the original astronomical alignment is preserved, and twice a year, on February 22 and October 22, the sun still illuminates the statues of Ramesses, Ra-Horakhty, and Amun deep within the sanctuary, leaving Ptah, god of darkness, in shadow.

Nubia actually begins well before Abu Simbel. Historically it extended from the First Cataract near Aswan to the confluence of the two Niles at Khartoum. To the north, the Nubian villages of Gharb Soheil and Heisa, on the west bank of the Nile facing Aswan, were rebuilt after the creation of Lake Nasser submerged 45 settlements and displaced approximately 50,000 people to Kom Ombo and the Esna region between 1963 and 1964. The houses are painted in blues, ochres, and geometric patterns, their doorways framed with frescoes depicting a pilgrimage to Mecca or stuffed crocodiles, ancient protective symbols tied to the pre-dam Nile.

The Nubian language, Kenzi in the north and Fadicca further south, is still spoken within families, distinct from Egyptian Arabic. Cuisine also departs from Cairo standards: gourasa, a thick flatbread cooked on a griddle, accompanies okra or fish stews from the lake, and karkadé, hibiscus infusion served hot or chilled, is drunk throughout the day. Evenings often revolve around a tar, a frame drum, and circular chanting with nothing of the folkloristic spectacles staged for cruise ships.

Lake Nasser, the world's second largest artificial reservoir at 550 km long and 5,250 km² in area, preserves along its shores a series of temples rescued by UNESCO at the same time as Abu Simbel. Wadi es-Sebua, whose avenue of sphinxes gives it its name (the valley of lions), Dakka, Maharraqa, Amada, and the rock-cut temple of Derr can only be visited by cruise, operated by a handful of boats. It is a radically different experience from the classic cruise between Luxor and Aswan: no villages on the banks, bivouacs moored under the stars, and the sensation of a drowned desert.

Geographically, we are here in the heart of the eastern Sahara desert, at the latitude of the Tropic of Cancer. The lake's shores alternate between sand dunes, Nubian sandstone plateaus, and granite outcrops. Wildlife is limited to a few Nile crocodiles, fennecs, and notable migratory birdlife between November and March, notably goliath herons and osprey. The local economy relies on tilapia and catfish fishing, tourism, and marginally on some irrigated crops around Toshka.

Visiting Abu Simbel is therefore not simply about checking off a monumental temple. The region opens onto a living culture that the drowning of ancestral lands has not erased, and onto a Nile profoundly transformed whose shores still bear the archaeological traces of a civilization contemporary with pharaonic Egypt yet distinct from it.

Must-see

The Great Temple of Ramesses II. Four colossi of 20 meters carved into the cliff face and, within, the great hypostyle hall with eight Osiride pillars representing the pharaoh as Osiris. Arrival at 6 a.m. is recommended to avoid groups arriving by flight from Aswan.

Cruise on Lake Nasser. Three to four nights between Aswan and Abu Simbel, with stops at Wadi es-Sebua, Amada, and Kasr Ibrim, the latter visible from the boat only. Around a dozen boats operate, compared to more than 300 on the classic Nile.

Night in a Nubian house in Gharb Soheil. Village rebuilt on the west bank facing Aswan, accessible by felucca in 20 minutes. Dinner of molokhia and night in a family house painted with traditional designs, 50 km north of the Abu Simbel proper area.

The solar alignment of February 22 and October 22. Twice a year, on these mornings, the sun penetrates 60 meters into the sanctuary and illuminates the divine statues for about twenty minutes. The site is besieged with visitors; book flights and hotels six months in advance.

The Nubian Museum in Aswan. Before or after Abu Simbel, two hours of visiting to understand the kingdoms of Kerma, Napata, and Meroe, and the UNESCO rescue campaign of the 1960s. Models, photographs of the dismantling, and everyday Nubian objects.

When to visit

The best period extends from October to April. Daytime temperatures then oscillate between 22 and 30 °C, and nights drop to 8-12 °C in December and January, which often surprises visitors. The northern wind cools morning visits, but bring a fleece for evenings on Lake Nasser cruises, where humidity amplifies the sensation of cold.

From May to September, we advise against the region unless your schedule demands it. Temperatures regularly exceed 42 °C in June and July, with peaks of 48 °C recorded at Abu Simbel. Visits to the temples, which are not air-conditioned inside, become grueling even early in the morning. Rainfall is virtually nonexistent year-round, less than 1 mm per year on average, but sandstorms can occur in March and April.

Practical advice

For Abu Simbel alone, one day suffices: a 45-minute EgyptAir flight from Aswan in the morning, two hours on site, return in early afternoon. The road journey in convoy takes 3h30 each way and requires departure around 4 a.m., interesting especially for crossing the desert but tiring. For a more complete approach to Nubia, plan for 3 to 4 days including a night in Gharb Soheil or Heisa and the Nubian Museum in Aswan. The Lake Nasser cruise requires 3 to 5 days and constitutes a journey in itself.

The region naturally combines with the Nile Valley: most of our travelers move through Luxor, Edfu, Kom Ombo, Aswan, then Abu Simbel, over 8 to 12 days depending on pace. For those with two weeks, adding Cairo and Giza at the start or end of the trip is sensible. Combining with the Western Deserts (Bahariya, White Desert) requires returning to Cairo and only makes sense from 15 days onward. This region suits travelers interested in archaeology, the history of African civilizations, and cultural encounters. It is accessible to families with children from 8-10 years old, accommodation remaining adequate in Abu Simbel (two properties only, Seti and Nefertari) and comfortable in Aswan.